The steppiest castle in all of Scotland

Nothing beats the unparalleled rest you achieve when you must rise unusually early, lest you miss a flight. I had to be up at four, so I naturally woke up several times in the night and was wide awake at 3am. This was a great tactic on my body’s part as I definitely did not miss my flight to Glasgow. Thank you, body. At least I was not alone in my suffering as the hotel shuttle bus was really full and most of the people past the gates were waiting in long lines for coffee.

It’s 5:00 AM somewhere

I really do enjoy airports in Europe because so much is automated – bag drop does not require a human, and a lot of security gates are automated, too. However, on smaller regional flights, most of the time you take a bus to your plane instead of walking down a jetbridge. When one does not go to Europe in summer to avoid the people with children and tourist crowds, this often results in a small amount of suffering: this morning, it is windy and freezing and damp, as Irish fall is. Airplane bus was cold and moist and we had to sit and wait for a while with the door open (whyyy) while they finished getting everyone on, and then I am pretty sure we waited for fun for a while longer so we could all bask in the Irish weather.

At least the reward at the end was that the plane had propellers instead of a turbine engine and this caused me at least 55 minutes of sleepy wonder on the way to Glasgow.

I really like Glasgow airport – it’s small and has nice restaurants and shops. As a bonus, the amenities aren’t hideously overpriced, except for the parking, but it’s an airport and also Europe-adjacent, so I guess expected to be expensive.

I went to fetch the rental car, hoping to avoid what happened last time: we didn’t prepay (because I cancel and rebook sometimes for last-minute deals), we were slightly late, and so they gave away our reserved car, so we had to wait for another one to come available. (Sixt hooked us up with a car from a different company actually, so that was nice)

This time, I was early by 45 minutes, had prepaid, and they did not have a car for me because I was too early. Hopefully if I get to the desk at 9:01, I will still have a car. So I wait. I play Switch for a bit and befriend other travelers because I guess I talk a lot to randos when I travel by myself.

There’s three of us this time, so I got a small SUV, which I have named Beep Boop. Beep Boop is a plug in hybrid (I will plug it in sometime!) and has lots of nice features, like qi charging and inbuilt google maps navigation that show up on a little HUD when I’m driving. Beep Boop also has weird features, like when you park the car and walk away, it lowers itself slightly (??).

Meet beep boop

Anyway the maps integration and the HUD is nice, except Beep Boop goes BEEP BEEP BEEP if you go more than 2mph over the speed limit. It’s not loud, but it’s obnoxious, and the car’s settings claim it is disabled.

Beep Boop is a liar.

Cruise control it is for this trip, I guess.

The first matter of business after the car: I have been up since 3 and have not eaten real food, and I did not want airport restaurant food. When left to my own devices to feed myself on vacation, I usually do two things: one, forget to eat until I realize I am hangry; and then two, my diet is “stuff on bread” and cafe fare, because I’m too hungry to wait for a proper meal and I can’t have most fast food. Today, I decide to have real food, dang it! A real meal! And I am hangry, so I have fulfilled the first condition already.

My cafe of choice is quietly playing the Bridgerton soundtrack and is giving “chip and johanna gaines crossed the pond,” but the food is super good. My omelette has an immensely wonderful amount of crispy, toasted cheese on it and I don’t need to add sugar to the coffee. It was also just like 11 pounds, and I know a similar meal at home would run over $25.

I had time for one side adventure: a visit to Dumbarton castle. I have no idea why we didn’t come here last time, since I drove past where we stayed last. Since I chose this activity under sleepy duress, I didn’t register that it was literally a fortress on a rock, so there will be a lot of steps involved.

My second thought: it’s kind of buttcheeks

661 steps, to be precise. The most stairs of any castle in Scotland. Lucky me!

This rock has been home to a fortress of some flavor since the 5th century, as it overlooks a tidal river. A veritable strategic bastion. It’s changed hands a few times over the year, notably to vikings in the mid-9th century, and between clans during various clan wars. It famously housed Mary Queen of Scots for a few years, too. They were at one point considering imprisoning Napoleon here, but opted for the island in the Atlantic instead.

I traipsed up and then down every one of the 661 steps it had to offer. The views from the top were gorgeous and far-reaching, and it’s easy to imagine why this fort in particular played such a pivotal role throughout Scotland’s history.

After friend airport pickup, we go off to the highlands! The drive towards Inverness is a lot of four lane highway (carriageway?!) interspersed with two lane driving – very different from the route to Skye, which was a lot of two-lane roads and small towns. The trees are more aggressively changing here this year vs last time. Lower, snow-capped peaks rise in the distance as we wind our way around bends and through the hills. We drive over rivers (one was named Garry) and past lakes (lochs). The highlands are beautiful and this is why we are here. The sun isn’t out any more but it doesn’t shine on this country, and it’s still very beautiful and moody regardless.

Our destination: Kingussie. My neighbors loved it here, so we picked it. The name is also funny, and I’m a sucker for a destination with a funny name.

Where is the King’s bussy???

We settle in to our charming accommodations, greeted by a tiny bee knocker on the door. I think I need one. The door happens to be guarded by an eldritch rabbit on the inside. I also might need one.

Dinner is Scottish comfort food from a hotel just up the street. This is a little charming tourist town made of the same big ol’ bricks that many Scottish buildings are made out of (why? I will google this later), with lots of little parks and shops and cafes. It is perfection.

Finally, on Watch Watch watch (see last post): it’s still going strong. Why?! Please just die. Please.

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